2021 保加利亞旅遊攻略。UFO 飛碟紀念碑一日遊/廢墟愛好者的聖地。。TOP ATTRACTIONS Buzludzha, BULGARIA


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保加利亞共和國位於歐洲東南部,巴爾幹半島東北部,東鄰黑海,西部毗鄰馬其頓和塞爾維亞,是色雷斯文化的發源地。絕大多數人可能並不了解這裡,因為它的歷史就如一鍋亂炖一樣,混入了各種雜七雜八,卻從未站上主流的舞台。二戰後無奈追隨蘇聯老大哥,讓這裡被深深地刻上了社會主義符號。


Shipka Memorial Church
Shipka, Bulgaria
A magnificent, glittering building tucked into a tiny Bulgarian mountain town

希普卡紀念堂
教堂原為紀念耶穌誕生由當地東正教會在17世紀建立。教堂有著金色的洋蔥頭圓頂,是典型的東歐式東正教風格建築。教堂旁邊的鐘樓高達53米,裡面有一個重大12噸的大鐘。後來希普卡戰士的石棺仍放置於教堂的地穴中,人們為紀念他們把教堂稱為希普卡紀念堂。


In the slopes of Bulgaria’s Balkan mountain range, hidden within a thick grove of trees, is the Shipka Memorial Church. Flitting in and out between curtains of leaves are the shimmering golden onion domes and Russian Orthodox crosses—tell-tale giveaways of the church’s Russian architecture; it is also known as the Russian Church in Shipka and the Memorial Temple of the Birth of Christ, and as part of the larger Shipka Monastery.


The church, which is now Bulgarian Orthodox, was built between 1885 and 1902 in the 17th century Muscovite style, complete with friezes, arcs, and pediments. The building is dedicated to those soldiers—Russian, Ukrainian, and Bulgarian—who lost their lives fighting to free Bulgaria in the Russo-Turkish War from 1877-78 and more specifically, the Battles of Shipka Pass fought between the Russian and Ottoman Empire. The Church officially opened on the 25th anniversary of these battles, with the names of fallen soldiers inscribed on walls within and their remains held in stone sarcophagi in the church’s crypt.


The church has a bell tower rising 174 feet, with bells cast from battle cartridges weighing up to 12 tons. The church’s exterior is stunning, especially experienced in its remote and isolated mountain setting, while the interior is decorated with gilded ornamentation and intricate paintings.


Shipka Memorial Church is a perfect destination after a long meander up and around the trails in Shipka Pass, where many soldiers sacrificed their lives. From farther down the mountainside, the church’s gilded domes are hidden—yet still glitter in the distance.





There are direct buses from Plovdiv and Stara Zagora. From Sofia, there are bus and train options that run on the hour or half-hour; you can first to to Kazanlak and transfer from there to the No6 bus. The Shipka Church is also along the route of a number of mountain trails that also go to Shipka Peak and Buzludzha Monument. If you drive, there is free parking at the church. The church is open from 8:30am to 5:30pm. In respect of church traditions, visitors should wear clothing that covers their shoulders, elbows, and knees; women should have scarves in order to cover their heads.


Buzludzha Monument
Kazanlak, Bulgaria
An abandoned saucer-shaped monument in the Bulgarian mountains.


跟著 Toto Kuo 遊馬其頓/ 保加利亞 / 羅馬尼亞

#保加利亞 #Buzludzha #景點介紹
Buzludzha是保加利亞中部巴爾干山脈的歷史高峰,高達1,432米。 1868年,這是由Hadji Dimitar和Stefan Karadzha 和奧斯曼帝國領導的保加利亞反叛份子之間的最後一場戰鬥的地方。
保加利亞共產黨的紀念碑建於保加利亞共產主義政權的高峰上。紀念1891年的事件,當時由迪米爾·布拉戈耶夫率領的一群社會主義者在該地區秘密組織,形成一個有組織的社會主義運動,導致保加利亞共產黨的先驅保加利亞社會民主黨成立。
紀念碑的建造始於1974年1月23日,在建築師Georgi Stoilov,索非亞前市長和保加利亞建築師聯合會的共同創始人。這個過程中破壞了15000多立方米的岩石紀念碑的建成費用大約相當於3500萬美元。



冰峰紀念碑,又翻譯作飛碟紀念碑,是位於保加利亞巴爾幹山脈中部的一座建築,海拔高度1,432公尺。1868年,保加利亞人叛軍曾在這裡和奧斯曼帝國發生戰鬥。1891年,一批社會主義者在該地區秘密組織了社會主義活動,創建了保加利亞社會民主黨(保加利亞共產黨的前身),因此保加利亞共產主義政權在這裡建設紀念碑紀念這一事件。紀念碑於1974年1月23日開始興建,為興建這一建築還將山峰高度從1,441公尺降低到1,432公尺,修建耗資約3500萬美元。1981年8月23日,該建築正式開放。共產主義政權崩潰後,該建築陷入荒廢,成為廢墟愛好者的聖地。


現在它完全地處於被遺棄狀態,它的正門用巨大的混凝土做成的凸起文字:「起來,饑寒交迫的奴隸,起來,全世界受苦的人!站起來,反對壓迫,反對敵人!」 唱著國際歌的同時,你是否也已經感受到歷史的悲憤與震撼。

從保加利亞首都索非亞 (Sofia) 到達希普卡 (Shipka) 後再驅車盤山1個小時左右,你會在巴爾干山頭髮現無關飛碟事的“飛碟”,讓旅程變成“潛入UFO”探險之旅。

破落廢墟中,發現原來外星人的名字叫列寧。這個碟形建築名為Buzludzha(中文名:冰峰紀念碑),實際上是一個廢棄的建築,外表看是灰白扁圓的外圍插了一支“香燭”,殘破地屹立於大風呼呼吹的山頂,即使在夏天也會覺得寒氣逼人。建築曾是個演講台,建於上世紀80年代,為了紀念19世紀前蘇聯和保加利亞聯手在這一帶山頭抵抗奧斯曼帝國的侵略,旨在提醒人們前蘇聯是保加利亞的好朋友。

初建時,這裡是整個國家的地標,領導人在“飛碟”內演講,外面的廣場聚集著數千數万聆聽的民眾。不過建築本身卻是“豆腐渣”,不消幾年已化為危樓,然後成為廢墟,成了保加利亞人引以為恥的笑料。但不少當地人還是會帶子女來到這裡,緬懷童年時光,紀念親人。


這裡是全世界urbex (urban exploration) 的頂級朝聖地。破敗中滿是英雄末路的凋零美。在冬天白日下的暴雪天到訪“飛碟”,一片飛雪風暴中眼前的紀念碑轉瞬即逝,消失在一片天地相連的純白中,白色形式的完完全全的空。在360度無縫的雪白中,迷失了時空,眼前的一切幻化成一個抽象的符號,靜置存在。

“飛碟”外圍的廣場和雕塑都已受到破壞,但冬日的Buzludzha卻滿是莊嚴聖潔,佇立在天地之間。深入“碟”內,只見一片荒涼。嗅著停滯的空氣,踏著滿地破裂的玻璃、碎石,劈啪作響,加上沒有任何照明,無論樓梯轉角忽然彈出的是鬼還是外星人,都足以把人嚇個半死。地下室與樓梯全都結了冰,被剝落的紅色牆皮覆蓋著,上下樓基本只能用膝蓋和屁股。


保加保加利亞冰峰紀念碑位於保加利亞具有歷史意義的1441米海拔的Buzludzha山(土耳其語意為冰川)山頂,該山在保加利亞的近代史中占據重要地位,是多個歷史事件的發生地和戰場,冰峰紀念碑由保加利亞共產政權建造用來紀念1891年社會主義領導人Dimitar Blagoev 在該地區組織的社會主義運動和1878年俄土戰爭中在這個山頭上俄羅斯和保加利亞勇士聯手打敗了土耳其人,保加利亞共產黨為宣揚和鞏固與蘇聯的友好關係而建立,這裡曾經是國家級會談和千人以上聚會的官用場所。


ON THE REMOTE BUZLUDZHA PEAK 
in the mountains of Bulgaria stands an unusual abandoned monument.

The peak itself was the site of a battle between the Bulgarians and the Turks in 1868. In 1891 a group of socialists lead by Dimitar Blagoev met on the peak to plan for Bulgaria’s socialist future.


Work on the monument began in 1974, and was undertaken by units of the Bulgarian Army assisted by numerous artisans responsible for the large statues and murals. Large images of Lenin and Marx looked over the arena built for state functions and celebrations. Above it all blazed a red star-shaped window in honor of Soviet Russia.

紀念碑的內部,無數不同年代的碎片矛盾的堆積交錯著,卻又在這衰敗中和諧的融為一體,輻射著能量。在享受著觀察、分解它們的樂趣時,幻想不同年代的主人和荒廢後的探訪者們在此處的生存痕跡。時光在此處以割裂的形態展現眼前,經過塵土和陽光的混合後重新結合,展示了極致的衰敗之美。

很多人對於廢墟遺跡最大的興趣是它們背後所承載的歷史、故事、政治符號等。拋開它們身上所承載的所有歷史文化符號,那些雄性的、力量感的建築隨著時間漸漸衰退、被人遺忘,英雄末路的衰敗所產生的反差美令我動容。在不同環境和時間下,建築物主體散發出來的不朽氣息無比迷人,訴說著它們的“永恆”誓言。


但隨著蘇聯解體和東歐劇變一切時間戛然而止停滯在上個世紀最後的十年,如今「飛碟紀念碑」早已成為「危樓」內部也已破敗不堪,但通過牆上斑駁的文字和殘存的裝飾還能依稀辨認出專屬於那個年代的紅色印記。這個飛碟建築高約107米,由當時的設計師Georgi Stoilov設計超過60名保加利亞設計者參與了建築內部的裝飾與設計,並有數以千記的「志願者」參與建設。整個建築花費了7年時間完工,在中心地帶是一個高15米的500平大廳兩面12米高的紅色玻璃鑲嵌在70米高的塔上,象徵著舞動的共產主義旗幟。冰峰很獨特地坐落在山頂上周邊沒有建築,從天空向下看到它是如此突兀而它更是用造型強化這份突兀,冰峰紀念碑的主體建築很像一個飛碟,因此很多人稱呼它為「幽浮建築」。


它的每一面都散發著不可磨滅的美,它的外表看上去像是灰白扁圓的外圍插了一支「香燭」,殘破地屹立於大風呼呼吹的山頂,即使在夏天也會覺得寒氣逼人,也許是出於好奇,也許是想探索新鮮事物的心靈需要隨時被開啟,無論最初的動機是什麼,無時無刻不在吸引著世界各地的攝影師們前來朝聖,用鏡頭真實地記錄了最為震撼和珍貴的時刻。


「去那個廢棄的地方,我和相機一定要去,無聲又強烈的意願告知著我。」這是法國攝影師托馬斯.喬瑞的心聲,他的《永恆之島》讓保加利亞冰峰紀念碑首次出現在人們面前,那些已破舊不堪、安靜到底的影像總能讓人充滿了無限的想像,即使不在我們身邊,即使那是別國的往事,那畫面卻能擊中人類共同的深層神經,它充滿了無盡的誘惑,讓人們能夠與存儲在荒蕪和廢棄里的靈魂對話。


隨著時間的侵蝕它外圍的廣場和雕塑都已受到破壞,「飛碟」內只見一片荒涼,聽著滴水聲嗅著停滯的空氣,踏著滿地破裂的玻璃、碎石,噼啪作響,沒有任何照明實施,無論樓梯轉角忽然彈出的是鬼還是外星人都足以把人嚇得魂飛魄散。


After the government’s fall from power in 1989, the site was abandoned and left open to vandalism. The main entrance has been sealed and therefore closed to public. However, there is still a little way to get into the building on the right hand side of the building. Inside the Buzludzha Monument, most of the artwork has been removed or destroyed, but the concrete structure still stands against the elements.


A preservation team worked to get the monument listed as one of the seven most endangered heritage sites in Europe, and plans to preserve and restore the monuments are underway.

A guard has been put in place 24/7, so it is no longer possible to break inside. Visitors are still encouraged to visit the outside to experience the unique architecture.


“The international interest in Buzludzha is an indicator of its value and future potential,” says Dora Ivanova, whose own interest in the monument began with “incredible pictures” glimpsed online. “Pictures show the architecture without prejudice, and without its problematic historical context,” she explains. “Buzludzha’s online popularity is encouraging Bulgaria to re-evaluate it — not only as a political object, but as an important historical artefact and, moreover, an architectural masterpiece.”


Buzludzha remains as politically controversial as ever — many Bulgarian politicians will avoid voicing support for fear of being branded “Communists” — but now at least, conversations about the monument’s future are beginning to be taken seriously. Only time will tell whether Buzludzha is still salvageable once that process of re-evaluation is complete.


The construction of Buzludzha was made possible thanks to supporters’ contributions, in a voluntary donation campaign conceived by architect Georgi Stoilov himself. The total construction cost ran to around 14 million leva (rough 30 million euros, by today's rates). The site was built by civil engineering troops from the Bulgarian army and volunteers. The master builder was General Delcho Delchev who was in charge of the Stara Zagora civil engineering section. The author of this project was the architect Georgi Stoilov. A team of 500 artists, including numerous famous Bulgaria painters and sculptors, participated in the decoration.



建築最終刻化的是人的靈魂,你看到的不僅是歷史的遺蹟,更感受到什麼叫做永恆。雖然那段時光早已逝去,但它所代表的那個時代獨特的記憶依舊永存於世,感受到的不僅僅是震撼,更多的應該是警醒。


Ever since the superseding of Bulgarian president Todor Zhivkov and and the political changes that occurred in Bulgaria from 1989, the state of the monument has been worsening. A wall mosaic of Todor Zhivkov's face was destroyed, soon after the changes. The copper adornments have been stolen. The building is slowly disintegrating; marauders are consistently breaking windows and stealing mosaics and ornaments. The monument was left abandoned for decades.


The monument is the property of the new Bulgarian government. Several times, the modern Bulgarian Social Party have made bids for ownership, though their applications have been refused, as they were unable to present practical plans or proof of funding for the proposed worked. Eventually, in 2019, an independent campaign to preserve the monument was awarded a $185,000 grant from the Getty Foundation in the US, to fund the creation of a preliminary conservation plan. The monument is currently closed to the public, while work is conducted on conserving its interior mosaics.


保加利亞冰峰紀念碑 Buzludzha

地址:Buzludzha, Gabrovo, Bulgaria(東經25.389769, 北緯42.739326)

到達方式:需自駕前往,希普卡山口 (shipka pass) 沿5號公路向東南盤山而行,進入5005號公路一直開,12公里左右可見山頂的buzludzha紀念碑

門票:無門票,正門已經被封,正對大門的右側的窗戶已經被當地政府用鐵窗焊死了,目前暫不能進入。


從山下爬上冰峰所在的山頂需要半小時以上,它的身後站立一個高107米頂部有紅五角星的高塔,四周有無產階級革命元素的雕塑和巨大的廣場,這些有強烈的象徵主義色彩的物品在這荒蕪的山頂上有著某種光怪陸離的美感,科幻和政治在這裡成為莫測氣息的混搭這裡聚集起濃烈的冷悚、邊緣、神秘、郁暗、魅麗的氣場。


一日遊的行程結束後,因為想要繼續前往下一個城市,所以就脫隊,被放在不知是哪的路邊,開始了我這趟旅程第一次的搭便車。
很幸運地在路邊招車30分鐘後,有個好心的爸爸停下車,說可以讓我搭便車,不過途中他需回家一趟,所以我便上車,到了他家後,他老婆還準備點心和茶水招待,真的很友善,不過我在那卻足足等了3個多小時,還到附近走走,最後天黑了才順利到達下個城市,以下就是在他家附近時拍的,但也不知城鎮的名字











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All photos by Toto Kuo

Wedding Photography / Santorini Photo Tour
歐洲婚紗 / 蜜月側拍 / 聖托里尼旅拍

email : toto11046179@gmail.com
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