2021 保加利亞旅遊攻略。跟著攝影師 TOTO KUO 遊大特爾諾沃。必去景點推薦 TOP ATTRACTIONS IN Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria
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The arc of houses begins in Old Town with the old Ottoman style houses and continues round into the more modern parts of the city. Looking out along the houses, you almost feel like you’re in a natural amphitheatre where the houses are the seats.
大特爾諾沃位於保加利亞中北部，為保加利亞三大古都之一，歷史上曾是保加利亞首都。大特爾諾沃歷史悠久，現保存有多處古蹟和名勝，主要建築是查雷維茨山上的皇宮，氣勢恢宏，這裡也是歷代帝王陵墓所在。大特爾諾沃歷史上曾為總主教所在地，故以教堂建築聞名，在查雷維茨山頂有總主教的升天教堂和總主教府。此外著名的教堂還有聖迪米特爾教堂、40殉教者教堂、聖保羅教堂、聖喬治教堂等。
Veliko Tarnovo, meaning Great Thorny City in Old Bulgarian, is a mountain city located in the north of Bulgaria. It has often been called the "City of the Tsars", as it was historically the capital of the Bulgarian political entities. It is located around a major bend in the Yantra River that carved steep hillsides on which the Old Town is built. The Old Town is separated into 3 hills: Tsarevets, Trapezitsa, and Sveta Gora, while the New Town spills out into a flatter region to the west of the hills.
大特爾諾沃(Велико Търново)，位於保加利亞中北部。歷史上曾是保加利亞首都。十二世紀末，保加利亞貴族阿森兄弟在特爾諾沃組織武裝脫離拜占庭帝國統治，創建新王國，並在此定都。 1393年，奧斯曼帝國征服保加利亞，城市焚燒殆盡。特爾諾沃城地勢險要，在中世紀僅次於君士坦丁堡，是巴爾幹半島的第二大城市。現保存有多處古蹟和名勝。舊城區已闢為重點保護區、旅遊地。古城坐落在查雷維茨山和特拉佩濟察山兩座山上，揚特拉河蜿蜒其間。兩山都圍以城牆。
A town with very rich history, Veliko Tarnovo was the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire and has long traditions in the culture of Bulgaria. The city is rich in museums and historical sites, combined with vivacious night life propelled by the students in one of the largest universities in Bulgaria.
The city is divided into an old and new parts. The old city is a collection of traditional renaissance houses scattered over the hills around the river Yantra and the new part consists of a mixture of communistic and modern style buildings.
中文名稱：大特爾諾沃
外文名稱：Велико Търново
地理位置：保加利亞中北部，揚特拉河畔
面積：30.9平方公里
氣候條件：溫帶大陸性氣候
著名景點：查雷維茨山上的皇宮、聖迪米特爾教堂
地位：保加利亞三大古都之一
If in Veliko Tarnovo, make sure to visit the castle of the old Bulgarian capital - Tsarevets. The medieval stronghold located on a hill of the same name, served as the Second Bulgarian Empire's primary fortress and strongest bulwark from 1185 to 1393. Housing the royal and the patriarchal palaces, it is a popular tourist attraction. The castle itself offers spectacular views of the town, surrounding hillsides, and the river below. The Tower of Baldwyn (also Baldwin Tower) within the complex allows for tourists to climb to the top and offers both spectacular views and an insight into how medieval towers wer designed and how they functioned.
Since most of the touristy old town (including both fortresses) is on a natural choke point caused by the Yantra, that part will feel more cramped and crowded with tourists, and anyone looking to see a less-touristed old town should go to the western half, where the city opens up. The only problem with this is that most of the museums and monuments are located in the choke point, and most of the western half is residential, but both parts still offer great insights to old medieval European towns.
查雷威茲城堡（Tsarevets Fortress），建於十一世紀的城堡，曾經是保加利亞第一國王的宮殿，宮殿內的教堂有著精巧歷史繪畫；查雷威茲山頂上是大主教府和大主教教堂, 裡面有很多繪畫，十分華麗。有些畫好像是現代的風情畫。 1393年落入奧斯曼土耳其人手中，從此開始衰落，一直到20世紀。
著名的Tsarevets城堡 / 查雷威茲城堡。距離大特爾諾沃市中心約1公里，千百年來由色雷斯人、羅馬人和拜占庭人輪番佔據。現在我們所能看到的是一座高牆環繞的三角形城堡，內有400座以上的房屋和18座教堂，大部分建於5世紀和12世紀。查雷威茲城堡（含門票）作為大特爾諾沃的象徵，這座城堡橫亙在天際線上，是保加利亞深受喜愛的紀念建築之一。它曾是中世紀沙皇的宮殿，如今擁有400餘座房屋。
地址：ul. Stefan Stambolov, Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria.
開放時間：4月至9月，8:00-19:00；10月至次年3月，9:00--7:00。
小貼士：黃昏之後有40分鐘的聲光錶演，不要錯過。
整個城堡建造在小山丘上，周圍是高高的城牆，只有一條道路可以通達。城牆內外遺留下很多歷史古蹟任後人憑弔。進入城堡參觀的門票，成人6列弗，價格並不貴，一張門票，可以參觀整座山頭……
從檢票口順著唯一的大路進入城門，然後登高參觀教堂。教堂內有著名的大理石柱子和色雷斯時代的抽象壁畫，很有特色。石獅子和城堡徽記矗立在城門口，傳承著當年的輝煌與繁榮。
懸崖峭壁加上陡峭的城牆，讓城堡易守難攻，成為國王安全的宮殿。可惜滄海桑田，城牆猶在，斯人已矣……如今這裡成為憑弔古代歷史文化的遺跡，從道路到山頂垂直陡立。
城牆邊蜿蜒的護城河，兩岸已經成為了民居。百姓安居樂業，才是這個時代的幸運。
耶稣升天大教堂
The Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of God was the Eastern Orthodox Cathedral of the royal palace during the Second Bulgarian Empire. It fell into ruin with the rest of the stronghold after the Ottoman invasion. When the fortress began to be reconstructed in the 20th century, it was decided that the cathedral would be rebuilt to honour the 1300th anniversary of the founding of the First Bulgarian Empire. Yes, they liked their anniversaries in the 20th century.
There was a dilemma with building the cathedral however. Cathedrals are generally decorated inside with murals and iconography showing religious figures and events. At the time, Bulgaria was a Communist state where religion was not looked upon kindly. Their solution was to decorate the church with contemporary murals, depicting figures from Bulgarian history and folklore. Finished in 1985, the end result was these striking, almost haunting murals covering the interior of the church. Those that enter the cathedral without some warning are in for a little shock.
The Patriarchal Cathedral of the Holy Ascension of God, also known as the Ascension Cathedral, stands atop Tsarevets Hill in the heart of Tsarevets Fortress. Built directly on top of a late-Roman basilica, it used to be the seat of the patriarch of Bulgaria from the late-11th century until the Ottomans destroyed it in 1393.
Although the church’s ruins have been a national monument since 1927, it wasn’t until 1978, however, that renovation works finally began. The reconstruction was finalized in 1981, which marked the 1,300th anniversary of Bulgaria. Opened to the public in 1985, it’s now one of the best things to do in Veliko Tarnovo.
跟著 Toto Kuo 遊 #馬其頓/ #保加利亞 / #羅馬尼亞
#保加利亞 #大特爾諾沃 #城市介紹
大特爾諾沃通常被稱為“沙皇之城”，位於揚特拉河上，被譽為第二保加利亞帝國的歷史之都，以其獨特的建築吸引了眾多遊客，是保加利亞北部重要的行政，經濟，教育和文化中心。
大特爾諾沃是保加利亞最早的人類聚居地之一，公元前3000年左右起有人類足跡。公元12至14世紀，大特爾諾沃迅速發展成保加利亞最堅強的要塞，是帝國最重要的政治、經濟、文化和宗教中心。14世紀當拜占庭帝國開始衰落，特爾諾沃以其在巴爾幹半島和斯拉夫世界顯著的文化影響自居為第三羅馬。
建築特色
古都的主要建築是查雷維茨山上的皇宮，建築宏偉，有厚牆和塔樓防守，宮室鱗次櫛比，有一間供正式覲見和召集御前會議的寬闊寶殿，以圓柱分成三部分，地面按幾何圖形鋪砌，四壁以彩釉鑲嵌和壁畫裝飾。
禦教堂和寶殿緊鄰，牆上壁畫華麗，這裡也是歷代帝王陵墓所在，曾發現一口石棺，可能是沙皇伊万·亞歷山大（1331-1371年）之棺。宮中還附設食品庫、麵包房、酒窖等建築物，庭院中還發現一個容積約100立方米的大水池。
Another interesting spot is Baldwin’s Tower on the far side of the fortress. This tower is where the Flemish Baldwin I, Latin Emperor of Constantinople was imprisoned by Tsar Kaloyan. The exact circumstances of Baldwin’s death are uncertain, but the stories revolve around Kaloyan’s wife. In one version, the Tsar’s wife romantically pursued the captive Baldwin, so he committed suicide rather than be unfaithful to his wife. The other version of the legend is that Baldwin tried to seduce the Tsar’s wife, raping her and was in turn violently killed for his crime. Either way, Baldwin died a prisoner in the tower that now bears his name.
Tsarevets Fortress rests on a hill of the same name, but it’s not the only significant hill of Veliko Tarnovo. Between Old Town and the fortress is Trapezitsa Hill, which was yet another stronghold, indicating just how well defended the city was. Today the hill is off-limits to visitors as it is now an archaeological site. The ruins there have been under excavation for years now, with two towers now reconstructed on the hilltop.
Tsarevets
With no doubt, the first place you should see when visiting Veliko Tarnovo for the first time is the Tsarevets hill and fortress. It was once the most important fortification of legendary Tarnovgrad – the capital of the Second Bulgarian state. The fortification stood unconquerable for centuries with its three rings of fortification walls and the man-made abyss just below the main entrance.
城堡每晚都有免費的燈光秀表演。我們抵達的當天是保加利亞的斯拉夫文字節，全國放假，因此晚上的表演就更加有人氣和值得期待。諮詢酒店前台和城堡的工作人員，都說當晚的燈光秀會在20：30分開始，所以我們早早在露台等候，此時天色尚未黑，教堂莊嚴矗立在山頂。由於夏天這里天黑很晚，所以一直等到21：00，一旁的城牆才可以亮燈。
真正城堡音樂燈光秀開場，是夜晚的21：38分。此時城堡前人頭攢動，熱鬧非凡，大家爭先恐後搶占一個有利的觀景位置，而我們則安坐露台上，泡著龍井來看表演，甚為悠閒。整個音樂燈光秀，有故事情節，有旁白解說，燈光千變萬化，配樂經典華美。可惜我們一句話也聽不懂，只能觀賞這光影美景。整個表演持續20多分鐘，在高潮時燈火五彩繽紛，把古老的城堡點綴得華美絢爛。可以看到整條主街延伸到城堡去的道路上烏泱泱都是前來觀賞的人群。每個人手裡的手機亮屏，也成為了燈光秀的一部分。建議大家到大特爾諾沃，一定要找家看得見風景的酒店來觀賞美景哦！
During the two centuries when Veliko Tarnovo was the Second Bulgarian Empire’s capital, Tsarevets Fortress was the most important of Bulgaria’s castles. Perched atop Tsarevets Hill, this glorious stronghold is incredibly preserved. It’s without question one of the absolute top things to see in Veliko Tarnovo and a major tourist attraction in Bulgaria.
Tsarevets Fortress is home to fortified walls, the medieval palace of the Bulgarian kings, and the patriarchal complex with its library, monks’ cells, scriptorium, and Patriarchal Cathedral St. Ascension, the “mother of all Bulgarian churches.”
Additionally, this vast fortress also comprised more than 400 residential houses, about 20 churches, and four monasteries.
Nativity of Saint Mary Cathedral
Not so much a sight as a place to pass by and have a quite moment of contemplation while sightseeing. The interior has some damage to the frescoes but the ceiling is beautifully painted. You can buy a candle and light it at any of the icons. Background church music is usually playing. Services are held on Sundays from 09:00 - 11:00, followed by weddings and baptisms.
Asen Dynasty Monument
The Asen Dynasty Monument was erected in 1985, celebrating 800 years since the brothers designated the city as their capital. Overlooking the Old Town and the Yantra River, the monument is a huge sword surrounded by statues of the first four Asen rulers.
From the Asen Dynasty Monument, there’s a fantastic view of the Old Town with its building-covered hillsides.
One of the most fun places to visit in Veliko Tarnovo is the Samodovska Charshia Market. This historic marketplace is where local farmers sold their products and produce in the late-19th century. As the market grew more extensive, it spread through cobbled Rakovski Street, eventually encompassing many inns, bakeries, and traditional craft workshops.
The area was renovated dramatically in the 1980s, recreating the bustling vibe of its heyday a century earlier. The marketplace consists of beautifully restored houses, which house various workshops for everything from pottery and wood carving to weaving, painting, copper working, and knife making.
There are various historical museums, located in Old Town, and an art museum on an island in the river. Nearby Arbanassi on the hilltop 4 km away is also worth a visit, a taxi will cost about 3-4 lev.
Right around where the old part widens, there is a large Monument to Mother Bulgaria, which commemorates Veliko Tarnovo's history as the former capital of the Bulgarian state.
For tourists, there are two streets that are particularly worth visiting. Georgi S. Rakovski Street in the Old Town is the closest thing Veliko Tarnovo has to a pedestrian street. This narrow street is lined with charming old houses and is also one of the main streets of the Samovodska Charshia market area. Within the market area you will find many of the city’s local craftsmen. The houses themselves are of the National Revival Period, dating from the latter half of the 19th century.
Another major feature of the street is the Handji Nikoli Inn, possibly the last functioning Ottoman Inn in Bulgaria. The inn dates back to 1858 and today functions as a restaurant, museum and gallery. I did actually eat dinner there one night and while it was a little expensive by local standards, the decor is beautiful and the food is tasty.
What’s great about the old Ottoman houses of Veliko Tarnovo is that while they make up a breathtaking cityscape, they are also individually beautiful. Walking through the upper and lower streets of Old Town, you’ll come across plenty of well-preserved houses in the Ottoman style.
其他保加利亞推薦景點
All photos by Toto Kuo
Wedding Photography / Santorini Photo Tour
歐洲婚紗 / 蜜月側拍 / 聖托里尼旅拍
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