跟著攝影師Toto Kuo 遊波斯尼亞|十大最佳攝影景點 Top 10 photographic spots in Bosna Hercegovina




波士尼亞與赫塞哥維納是歐洲南部巴爾幹半島西部的多山國家,首都塞拉耶佛。 波赫為組成原南斯拉夫的六個社會主義共和國之一,於1990年代,南斯拉夫戰爭時期獨立,並且根據《岱頓協定》,波赫目前是國際社會公認的獨立主權國家。

Bosna i Hercegovina是前南斯拉夫的六個聯邦成員之一。在Tito出任總統的年代,南斯拉夫是歐洲唯一沒加入華沙公約的社會主義國家,他和印度第一任總理Nehru、埃及總統Nasser成立了「第三世界國家」,他們拒絕涉入美蘇兩大強國關係。在這個時期,南斯拉夫的經濟和其他東歐國家比起來是比較富有的,即使到了現在很多人還是很懷念Tito執政的年代。到了1990年Bosna i Hercegovina宣布獨立,接著就發生了二十世紀後期最慘烈的城市包圍戰。Bosna和Hercegovina僅是兩個地理區域名稱,到了今天,這個國家仍然用不同種族名稱代表著政治實體。







1. Prokoško Lake 
山中的一片寧靜

遠離城市。山中湖泊。如夢境般。
一路上我們半走路半開車的來到這個地方,一直懷疑google是不是帶錯路,路況很差,幾乎花了4倍google預估的時間才到,但一切都值得了!
好想在這和羊群牛群住一陣子 :)






Prokoško Lake|You will find it in the heart of Bosnia. It is located in the municipality of Fojnica and it is 1670m above sea level. It is a mountain glacier lake, a "mountain eye”, surrounded by pastoral huts and surmounted by numerous peaks of the mountain Vranica.
A combination of the configuration of the soil, air and water at this altitude, as well as rapid changes in weather conditions and the strange and interesting habitats around the lake, make people just fall in love with this completely otherworldly place.


Story : 在我們去冬奧會滑雪賽道遺址計程車司機,跟我們說這上山的纜車是今年2018才完成並開放的,且是一位來自薩拉耶佛的難民,在奧地利和一位富豪陷入熱戀後,富豪問她:如果我可以幫妳完成一件事,那會是什麼?她說她希望能完成薩拉耶佛的城市纜車。這位富豪真的就全額支助並在今年完成了這纜車。不過這纜車撘一次並不便宜,一趟票價10歐元。 


冬奧會滑雪賽道遺址附近的廢棄建築物,可以看見彈痕累累

2. 前南聯冬奧會滑雪賽道遺址 
1984年冬奧會在南斯拉夫薩拉熱窩舉辦,這就是當時用作滑雪的比賽場地,現已被遺棄,整個賽道上被畫滿各種塗鴉,可以在上面行走,從頭走到尾大概半小時不到,喜歡廢墟攝影的不要錯過 




Sarajevo Olympic Bobsleigh and Luge Track is a bobsleigh and luge track situated on Trebević mountain overlooking the City of Sarajevo, built for the 1984 Winter Olympics.
After the Winter Olympics, the track was used for World Cup competitions until the start of the Yugoslav wars in 1991 that would include the Bosnian War the following year. The track was damaged as a result of Siege of Sarajevo. During the siege, the track was used as an artillery position by Bosnian Serb forces. As of January, 2018 the tracks still remain mostly intact with war wounds of defensive fighting holes, drilled into one of the last turns of the course.
FIL and FIBT experts heralded the track as "Safe, Quick, and technically interesting and requires extreme concentration and technical knowledge.



3. 被戰爭摧毀的世界遺產- 莫斯塔爾 Mostar
這座城鎮是許多人到克羅埃西亞 Dubrovnik 杜布羅夫尼克度假其中最喜歡的一日遊鄰國城市. 尤其有名的莫斯塔爾古橋, 更是到東歐旅遊必去景點.



這座橋是鄂圖曼帝國在 1557 年下令用石頭材料代替當時的木橋, 總共花了九年才完成. 在那個年代是全世界最寬的橋. 它的長度 二十八公尺, 高二十公尺, 當時的工程到底如何以當時的技術建造這座橋史書並沒有詳細記載.這座橋在波士尼亞戰爭中 (1993年) 被炸斷了.1998年世界遺產組織開始幫忙籌劃如何修建這座橋. 直到橋 2004年完工。




Mostar it is the most important city in the Herzegovina region, serving as its cultural and economic capital. It is situated on the Neretva River and is the fifth-largest city in the country. 


這棟外表華麗的建築原本是這個城市新的百貨公司, 因為戰亂而停蓋, 廢棄到現在也已經二十年了.





Mostar was named after the bridge keepers (mostari) who in the medieval times guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over the Neretva. The Old Bridge, built by the Ottomans in the 16th century, is one of Bosnia and Herzegovina's most recognizable landmarks, and is considered one of the most exemplary pieces of Islamic architecture in the Balkans.




 4. Počitelj 迷人的中世紀小鎮 
是位在Mostar南方30多公里的一個小鎮,高處俯看是波士尼亞最著名的河流,聯合國教科文組織的文化遺產,也是世界上100個最瀕臨危險的文化遺址之一。



Počitelj is a village in the Čapljina municipality in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The historic site of Počitelj is located on the left bank of the river Neretva. The stone-constructed parts of the town are a fortified complex, it represents one of the few urban ensembles that were preserved in their integrity to the present times.


5. Kravice Waterfalls 

它是Trebižat河上的一個大型凝灰岩瀑布,位於波斯尼亞的喀斯特中心地帶,高度約為25米。在春天,可以游泳至這個迷人的迷你版尼亞加拉瀑布(25米)底下,相當壯觀。因為瀑布本身位在國家公園內,所以感覺就像是被大自然環抱,很舒服,推薦給喜歡戶外旅遊的人。
不過目前並沒有大眾交通可以到達,所以可以選擇參加從Mostar出發的一日遊,如果多人建議可以租一台計程車包車前往。




小插曲 :人生中第一次溺水就在這,好心要教不會游泳的朋友,結果一下子就被她拉下水,她因為緊張不斷的把我往下拉,眼看石頭岸邊就在眼前,卻怎麼也摸不到,姊姊拿著我的相機,眼看著兩個人就在岸邊溺水。。。上岸後,質問我姐:不救我們就算了,為什麼不拍照?


It is a large tufa cascade on the Trebižat River, in the karstic heartland of Herzegovina in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Its height is about 25 metres. In spring, this stunning mini-Niagara of 25m cascades pounds itself into a dramatic, steamy fury. In summer, surrounding pools become shallow enough for swimming.




6.科尼茨 Konjic

是波士尼亞和黑塞哥維納的一座城市。位於黑塞哥維納的北部地區。附近地形多山。



Onjička Old Bridge was built between 1682 and 1683 by Ali-aga Hasečić. It was built over six slightly pointed stone arches. It is the best preserved Ottoman bridge in Bosnia and Herzegovina. The arches were destroyed by the retreating German army in March 1945. The bridge was rebuilt in its original state between 2003 and 2009. The bridge is now proclaimed a National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.





Konjic It is located in northern Herzegovina, around 50 kilometres southwest of Sarajevo. It is a mountainous, heavily wooded area, and is 268 m above sea level. The municipality extends on both sides of the Neretva River.




7. Konjic | TitosBunker - ARC D-0 
獨裁者Tito's 最高機密防空洞
特別推薦給大家,非常有趣,真的很值得拜訪
沒有大眾交通到達,但可以在Konjic的旅遊社預定導覽,門票10歐元,整個過程約1個小時,裡面有不同現代藝術家作品,導覽員會一一解說防空洞內的設施和各各作品的意義



It is really worth to visit it !!!

Tito's top secret bunker in Bosnia is a time capsule back to 1950s Yugoslavia.
In the early 1950s, Josip Broz Tito, the late leader of the former Yugoslavia, ordered the building of a secret bunker that would safeguard the country's ruling class in case of a nuclear attack. Located 900 feet (270 m) underground, near the Bosnian town of Konjic, the 26-year project was only completed in 1979, the year before Tito died, and it was built at a cost equivalent to just under £3 billion ($4.6 billion).





This atomic shelter could withstand a nuclear attack of 20 - 25 kilotons. The bunker has eight alternative exits that are not shown on the map which lead to the top of the mountain. This huge facility has more than one hundred rooms in a total area of 6400 square meters and these would be used by 350 people from political and state leadership of former Yugoslavia in case of a nuclear attack. These officials could stay in the bunker for six months without any contact with the outside world.Up until the 1990s, this shelter was the biggest military secret.









Time of the visits: MON, WED, FRI - 10am, 12pm and 2pm TUE, THU - 12pm SAT, SUN - 10am and 12pm.



8. Medieval watermills (millstones)
on the River Pliva, 5 km away from the center of Jajce, date from the Middle Ages. Twenty wells, built on a travertine barrier between the Pliva Lake, make a great contribution to the ambience of the historic city of Jajce and are an expression of the local carpentry skills and the traditional way of building.




Due to its natural, historical, architectural, geological and scientific value, the Cultural Landscape-Pliva Lakes with a complex of watermills (mills) on the Pliva River in 2009 was declared the National Monument of Bosnia and Herzegovina.



9. 塞拉耶佛
是波士尼亞與赫塞哥維納的首都,也是波赫人口最多的城市。塞拉耶佛位於波士尼亞塞拉耶佛山谷之中,米里雅茨河沿岸,被狄那裡克阿爾卑斯山脈所包圍。塞拉耶佛是波赫的社會及文化中心,也擁有區域性的政治、教育、娛樂、媒體、時尚、科學和藝術影響力,還是波赫主要的經濟中心。

塞拉耶佛以其宗教多樣性聞名於世,伊斯蘭教、東正教、天主教、猶太教數世紀以來都共存其中。因其悠久的歷史和宗教及文化多樣性,塞拉耶佛常被稱為「歐洲的耶路撒冷」。直到20世紀後期為止,塞拉耶佛都是歐洲僅有的清真寺、天主教堂、東正教堂和猶太教堂可以比鄰共存的大都市。


Sarajevo is the capital and largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina. 
It is the political, social and cultural center of Bosnia and Herzegovina, a prominent center of culture in the Balkans, with its region-wide influence in entertainment, media, fashion, and the arts.

Due to its long and rich history of religious and cultural diversity, Sarajevo is sometimes called the "Jerusalem of Europe" It is one of only a few major European cities which have a mosque, Catholic church, Orthodox church and synagogue within the same neighborhood.








In 1885, Sarajevo was the first city in Europe and the second city in the world to have a full-time electric tram network running through the city, following San Francisco.

For 1,425 days, from April 1992 to February 1996, the city suffered the longest siege of a capital city in the history of modern warfare, during the Bosnian War and the breakup of Yugoslavia.

The travel guide series, Lonely Planet, has named Sarajevo as the 43rd best city in the world, and in December 2009 listed Sarajevo as one of the top ten cities to visit in 2010. In 2011, Sarajevo was nominated to be the European Capital of Culture in 2014 and will be hosting the European Youth Olympic Festival in 2019.

10. 路上其他景點 On the road ...










All photos by Toto Kuo


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